Knitting 101: Knitting for beginners - Paradise Fibers

Knitting 101: How to Knit for Beginners? A Complete Step-by-Step Guide

Learning how to knit is one of the most rewarding things you can pick up, and we say that as people who have been living and breathing fiber arts since 1997. This guide covers everything a beginner needs to get started knitting: the tools, the cast-on, the knit stitch, the purl stitch, basic stitch patterns, and how to finish your work. By the end you will have enough knowledge to sit down and knit your very first project.

If you prefer to learn by watching, you can find a full library of video tutorials on our YouTube channel and on Instagram. Sara, our in-house knitting expert trained by national instructors, is also happy to help you work through any part of the process. Just hit the chat bubble on the bottom right of the screen.

What You Need to Get Started Knitting

You do not need a lot of equipment to start knitting, but what you do buy matters. Here is what we recommend for a complete beginner:

  • Yarn: We recommend worsted weight yarn for beginners. The stitches are large enough to see clearly, which makes counting and fixing mistakes much easier. Stick to a smooth, light to medium colored yarn so your stitches are easy to distinguish on the needle.
  • Knitting needles: Most worsted weight yarn works on a US size 7 or 8 needle. Because most beginners knit tightly, a US size 8 is usually the better starting point. We carry a wide range of knitting needles here.
  • Tapestry needle: Used to weave in your yarn ends when you finish a project. We carry tapestry needles here.
  • Small scissors: A basic pair of craft scissors for cutting yarn.

That is genuinely all you need. Do not let anyone talk you into a cart full of gadgets on your first trip. Start simple, get comfortable with the basics, and add tools as you find you need them.

Choosing Your First Knitting Project

The best first project is one that keeps you knitting long enough to build real muscle memory. A simple dishcloth or a garter stitch scarf are both excellent choices. A dishcloth finishes fast and gives you a win early, which matters more than you might think. A scarf takes longer but gives you much more time to solidify your technique before moving on to something more complex.

For patterns, Ravelry is free to join and has hundreds of thousands of beginner patterns. We also have our own group there called The Real Paradise Fibers where you can share your projects, ask questions, and get notified about our sales.

Once you have your supplies and your project picked out, it is time to learn to cast on.

Getting Started: How to Cast-on

Casting on means creating your first row of stitches on the needle. This is your foundation. Everything you knit builds on top of it. The method taught here is called the long tail cast-on, which is the most widely used cast-on in knitting. It creates a neat, stretchy edge and once you learn it, you will use it for years.

Before you start, determine where to place your slip knot by measuring a tail of yarn roughly three and a half times the finished width of your project. This tail is what you will use to cast on your stitches, so you need enough of it to work with.

Step 1: Slip Knot

Make a slipknot and leave a tail. The length of this tail varies depending on the number of stitches you will need to cast-on. To figure out where to tie the slip knot, measure three and a half times the width the pattern calls for. 

Step 2: Put Slip Knot on Needle

Put the needle through the slipknot and pull snug with the short tail end of the yarn closest to you.

Step 3: Make Sure the Slip Knot is Facing the Right Way

The string that is attached to your ball of yarn should be in the back and the string that is free in the front. Then hold this needle in your right hand with the 2 strings of yarn hanging down. 

Make Sure the Slip Knot is Facing the Right Way

Step 4: Pinch Thumb and Index Finger Together

Make the okay sign with your left hand by pinching the thumb and index finger together.

Pinch Thumb and Index Finger Together

Step 5: Push Fingers between the 2 Yarn Strands

Put these 2 fingers between the 2 strands of yarn, make sure the short tail end of the yarn is in front of your thumb and the long working yarn is behind your index finger.

Step 6: Grab the Yarn

With your free middle, ring, and pinky fingers on your left hand, grab around the 2 dangling strands of yarn, like you are making a fist, and hold the strands out of the way.

Step 7: Push Yarn Apart

Separate your thumb and index finger- like you are making a sling-shot with your fingers. This will push the strands of yarn apart.

Step 8: Notice the 2 Loops:

Look at your hand that is holding the yarn. Notice the loops around your thumb and index fingers.

Notice the 2 Loops

Step 9: Put Needle Through 1st Loop

Insert your needle behind the strand of yarn closest to you on your thumb.

Step 10: Put Needle Through 2nd Loop

Insert your needle behind the strand of yarn closest to you on the loop around your index finger.

Step 11: Pull Yarn from Loop 2 Through Loop 1

Pull your needle back through the loop on your thumb.

Step 12: Take Thumb out of Loop 1

Release your thumb from the loop.

Step 13: Pull Tail of Yarn With Thumb Creating a New Loop

Pull the tail end of the yarn with your thumb, tightening the stitch you just made and creating another loop on your thumb. (You should have 2 stitches on your needle now, your slip knot counts as one of these stitches.)

Step 14: Repeat

Repeat steps 9-13 until you have the desired number of stitches cast-on. This type of cast-on is called the Long Tail Cast-on.

How to Do the Knit Stitch

The knit stitch is the foundation of all knitting. Everything else is built on top of it. Once you can knit consistently, you can make real things. The knit stitch is often abbreviated as k in patterns.

Step 1: Switch Hands

Hold the needle with the cast on stitches in your left hand, and the empty needle in your right hand.

Step 1: Hold Needle with Cast on Stitches in Your Left Hand, and the Empty Needle in Your Right Hand

Step 2: Wind Working Yarn Around Fingers For Tension

Wind the working yarn through your fingers to help you keep an even tension. How you do this is not important; just find whatever is most comfortable for you.

Step 2: Wind Working Yarn Around Fingers For Tension

Step 3: Hold the empty Needle in front of everything in your right hand

Hold the empty needle in front of the working yarn.

Step 3: Hold the empty Needle in front of everything in your right hand

Step 4: Insert the Empty Needle into the First Stitch

Insert the new (empty) needle into the first stitch, going upwards into the stitch and creating an “X” with your needles. The old needle (with stitches on it) is on top of the new needle.

Step 4: Insert the Empty Needle into the First Stitch

Step 5: Wrap the Yarn Around the Needle

Wrap the working yarn around the new needle only in a counter clockwise direction.

Step 5: Wrap the Yarn Around the Needle

Step 6: Use the Right Needle to pull the Working yarn under the left needle through the stitch on that needle

Sliding the new needle down, carefully catch this loop of yarn and pull it under the cast on stitch. You should now have one loop on the new needle and one on the old needle.

Step 6: Use the Right Needle to pull the Working yarn under the left needle through the stitch on that needle

Step 7: Pull the original stitch off of the left needle with the new stitch you just made

Pull the remaining loop off the old needle, leaving the new loop on the needle that was previously empty.

Step 7: Pull the original stitch off of the left needle with the new stitch you just made

Step 8: Repeat Until End of Row

Repeat with all remaining stitches.

Step 9: Switch hands after the last stitch

Once the row is finished, switch which hand each needle is in so that the needle with the stitches on it is once again in your left hand. The old needle becomes the new needle and vice versa.

Step 10: Knit this row just like the last one.

When knitting a row that will be all knit stitches, make sure that your working yarn is beneath both needles at all times. It is especially important to double check this at the beginning of rows, which is where most new knitters accidentally add extra stitches.

To make a simple scarf, repeat this row until your work is as long as you want, then bind off.

How to Do the Purl Stitch

The purl stitch is the counterpart to the knit stitch. Where the knit stitch pushes the needle through a stitch from front to back, the purl stitch does the opposite. The purl stitch is abbreviated as p in patterns. Together, knit and purl are the two building blocks of all knitting.

Step 1: Position the Yarn in Front

Hold the needle with stitches in your left hand and the empty needle in your right hand, just as you do for the knit stitch. For the purl stitch, bring the working yarn to the front of the work, between the two needle tips. This is the key difference from the knit stitch.

Step 2: Insert the Right Needle Into the First Stitch

Insert the right needle into the first stitch on the left needle from right to left, going through the front of the stitch. The right needle tip enters the stitch from the right side and exits to the left. The right needle should sit in front of the left needle, the opposite of the X position you used for the knit stitch.

Step 3: Wrap the Yarn Counterclockwise

Wrap the working yarn counterclockwise around the right needle, keeping the yarn in front of the work. This is the same wrapping direction as the knit stitch but the yarn starts and stays in front rather than behind.

Step 4: Pull the New Loop Through

Use the right needle to pull the wrapped yarn loop back through the stitch on the left needle, moving the loop from front to back away from you. You should now have a new loop on the right needle.

Step 5: Slide the Original Stitch Off

Slide the original stitch off the left needle. You have just completed one purl stitch.

Step 6: Repeat Across the Row

Keep the working yarn in front at all times and repeat steps 2 through 5 for every stitch on the left needle. At the end of the row, switch hands and begin the next row.

Basic Stitch Patterns: Garter Stitch and Stockinette Stitch

Once you know how to knit and purl, you can create the two most fundamental stitch patterns in all of knitting.

Garter Stitch

Garter stitch is created by knitting every single stitch of every row. No purling required. The result is a bumpy, textured fabric that looks the same on both sides and has a natural stretchiness that makes it very forgiving for beginners. Garter stitch does not curl at the edges, which makes it ideal for scarves, dishcloths, and blanket borders. It is the perfect first stitch pattern precisely because you only need to know the knit stitch to make it.

Stockinette Stitch

Stockinette stitch (abbreviated as st st) is made by alternating a knit row with a purl row when working flat. Knit one row, purl the next, repeat. The result is the smooth, V-shaped fabric you see on most commercial sweaters and T-shirts. One side shows all the V shapes (the knit side) and the reverse side shows the bumps (the purl side). Stockinette curls at the edges, so it is typically used with a border of garter stitch or ribbing to keep the edges flat.

How to Choose Knitting Needles

Knitting needles come in three main types: straight needles, circular needles, and double-pointed needles. For a beginner starting with a flat project like a scarf or dishcloth, a pair of straight needles is the most straightforward starting point. As your projects expand, circular and double-pointed needles open up new possibilities.



Popular Needle Brands We Carry

ChiaoGoo is one of our favorite brands for circular needles. Their metal circular needles have a highly flexible red cable that is a genuine standout feature and a staff favorite in our shop. Once you are ready to invest in a proper interchangeable set, ChiaoGoo's interchangeable sets are exceptional and make a great gift for the knitter in your life.

HiyaHiya makes both steel and sharp steel needles that are particularly well suited to lace knitting and detailed work. Their bamboo line is popular with crafters who prefer a natural needle feel. They also produce excellent interchangeable sets.

The Addi Turbo Circular Needles are made of nickel-plated aluminum with a smooth join between the needle tip and cable. Addi also makes bamboo and lace-point circulars. All Addi needles come with a lifetime warranty.

If you or someone you know has trouble holding standard circular needles or experiences discomfort in the hands while knitting, the Kollage Square Needles are worth knowing about. These precision-crafted, square-shaped needles reduce hand fatigue and are backed by a lifetime warranty.

Other Needle Resources

  • Knitting Needles – Learn how to choose the most appropriate type of knitting needles for your skill level and project.
  • Choosing Needles – Have a look at the different types of needles and the results they produce.
  • Circular Knitting Needles - browse our huge selection of circular knitting needles from Chiaogoo, Louet, Addi Turbo and Hiya Hiya.
  • Double Point Knitting Needles - DPNs are perfect for smaller projects. Here we have a selection to choose from rosewood and ebonywood in 5 and 7 inch lengths to American birch, bamboo, and metal.
  • Single Point or Straight Knitting Needles - Single Points knitting needles are the most common traditional style of needle browse our huge selection.


Knitting Resources: 

Knitting Basics

  • Tools and Yarn – Find out how to pick the right tools and yarn for your knitting needs.
  • Before Knitting (PDF) – See visual examples of the types of products available for knitters, with information about which are best to start with.
  • Knitting Patterns – Access a series of patterns and instructions for different types of knitting projects.
  • A Beginner’s Guide to Knitting (PDF) – This guide covers everything from selecting yarn, to basic techniques, stitches, and more.
  • Knitting Resources – Find a variety of patterns and video tutorials for knitting inspiration.
  • Beginning Knitting (PPT) – Watch a slideshow on how to get prepared and start knitting your first piece.
  • Knitting Techniques – The resources on this page offer help with knitting techniques as well as troubleshooting.
  • Knitting Thesaurus – Look up abbreviations and meanings of terms used in knitting tutorials and patterns.
  • Knit and Purl (PDF) – Follow this guide for detailed notes and instructions on how to knit and purl.
  • Warp and Weft – Learn all about warp and weft and how it can be applied in different ways.

Other Types of Knitting

  • Circular Knitting – In this tutorial, beginner knitters learn about circular knitting and how to try it themselves.
  • How to Felt – A tutorial on how to felt your projects.
  • Lace Knitting – Use this checklist of materials required for lace knitting projects.

History and Culture

  • Why Knit? – Read some common reasons on why people have knitted in the past as well as in the present.
  • Origins of Knitting – This brief history introduces some early instances of knitting in previous centuries.
  • Norse Knitting – See how people knitted in ancient Norse cultures.
  • Red Cross Knitting – Trace the history of the Red Cross’ knitting campaigns from World War I on-wards.

Knitting Checklists and Knitting Supplies

 

Knitting Terms Glossary

Knitting patterns use a specific shorthand that can look confusing at first. Here are the most common terms you will encounter as a beginner, including their abbreviations in parentheses.

Cast-on (CO) - Creating the stitches on the needle. This creates a foundation row upon which you build the rest of your project.

Bind off (BO) - Finishing an item by weaving the stitches together and pulling them off the needles.

Knit stitch (k) - This is the most basic stitch in all of knitting. We will go into how to do this stitch below.

Purl stitch (p) - This is the companion of the knit stitch, and it’s the total opposite. We’ll explain that in a minute as well.

Garter stitch - Created by knitting every stitch of each row when knitting a flat piece. The resulting fabric is “bumpy” and stretchier than stockinette stitch.

[photo of garter stitch]

Stockinette stitch (st st) - A combination of stitches in which one row is knit, and the next row is purled when working back and forth. This is the traditional knitted fabric you are used to seeing on your ready-to-wear clothing, it is recognizable by consisting of many little “V’s.”
[photo of stockinette stitch]

Working yarn - The yarn coming from the ball.

Yarn weight - (Official Yarn Weight Chart)This is a way of describing how thick yarn is. It is often written in yards per ounce or meters per gram. For example, a yarn that is 2 meters per gram is going to be thicker than a yarn that is 4 meters per gram. The more meters per gram, the thinner the yarn. Yarn weights in US terms are (from thinnest to thickest) cobweb, lace, fingering/sock, sport, double knit (or DK), worsted, aran, bulky (or chunky), and super bulky.

Fiber content - This is simply what fibers were used to make the yarn. Common fibers are wool, acrylic, cotton, alpaca, etc. This includes both natural (proteinaceous) and man-made (synthetic) materials.

Gauge - Gauge is how tight or loose you knit. This is typically measured in stitches per inch. Some patterns, such as sweaters, require a certain number of stitches per inch for them to fit correctly. In other patterns, such as some scarves, gauge is less important.

If you're interested in learning more about knitting, spinning, felting or dyeing don't forget to follow our Youtube & Instagram for new tips, tricks and terrific work!

Frequently Asked Questions About Learning to Knit

How long does it actually take to learn to knit well enough to make a real project?

Most people can produce a real, finished project within their first few weeks of learning. The cast-on, knit stitch, and bind-off are all genuinely learnable in a single afternoon, and a simple garter stitch scarf or dishcloth is achievable within your first few sessions. Getting to a point where your stitches are consistent and your tension is even takes a little longer, typically a few weeks of regular practice, but the first project does not need to be perfect to be satisfying. The biggest variable is how often you sit down and knit. More time at the needles accelerates everything.

What do I do if I drop a stitch and my knitting starts to unravel?

Dropping a stitch is one of the most common things that happens to beginners, and it is very fixable. A dropped stitch creates a loop that has come off the needle, and if left uncorrected it can ladder downward through your knitting creating a visible run. The fix is to use a crochet hook to pick the dropped stitch back up through each horizontal bar of yarn (called a ladder) until it is back at the level of your needle row. There are good video tutorials for this technique on our YouTube channel, and our team is also happy to walk you through it via chat.

How do I know if I have accidentally added or lost stitches mid-row?

Count your stitches regularly, especially at the end of each row. At the beginning of each row, double-check that the working yarn is below both needles before you start your first stitch. Accidentally knitting into the yarn strung between two stitches (rather than into the actual stitch) is the most common way beginners add extra stitches without realizing it. If your stitch count is off and you cannot see where the error is, knitting back to the previous row (called tinking, which is "knit" spelled backward) and trying the row again is a straightforward solution.

Is learning to knit easier or harder than learning to crochet?

This is genuinely a matter of personal preference and there is no objectively correct answer. Knitting uses two needles and manages multiple active stitches at once, which some people find more complex to coordinate initially. Crochet uses a single hook and works one stitch at a time, which some people find more intuitive. Many crafters learn one and then pick up the other with relative ease since the fundamental concepts of yarn, tension, and stitch structure overlap significantly. The best starting point is whichever one you are most drawn to. If you want to try both before committing, our team in Spokane or via chat can point you toward beginner resources for either craft.

Can I use any yarn I already have at home to learn on, or does it need to be a specific type?

You can practice with whatever yarn you have on hand, but the type of yarn makes the learning experience noticeably easier or harder. A smooth, medium-weight yarn in a light or medium color is the most forgiving starting point. Very fuzzy or hairy yarns like mohair make it difficult to see your stitches and nearly impossible to undo mistakes. Very dark colors make it hard to see where to insert the needle. Very fine or very thick yarns are harder to control before your tension is consistent. If you are starting from scratch, a smooth worsted weight wool or acrylic in a light color is the ideal starting yarn, and we carry a full selection in our worsted weight collection.

Do I need to take a class to learn to knit, or can I teach myself from written instructions and videos?

Many people teach themselves to knit entirely from written instructions and videos, and the wealth of beginner resources available today makes that very achievable. Our YouTube channel has a full library of how-to videos, and the instructions in this guide cover everything you need for your first project. That said, an in-person class has real advantages: you get immediate feedback on your technique, someone can spot and correct tension issues before they become habits, and the community aspect of learning alongside other people is genuinely motivating. We offer beginner knitting classes at our Spokane shop throughout the year, and Sara, our in-house knitting expert, is available to help via the chat feature on our site anytime you get stuck.

How do I care for a finished knitted item so it lasts as long as possible?

Care depends entirely on the fiber content of your yarn. Natural fibers like wool and alpaca generally need to be hand-washed in cool water with a gentle wool wash such as Eucalan or Soak. Avoid wringing or twisting the wet item. Press out excess water gently, roll it in a clean towel to remove more moisture, and lay it flat to dry in its original shape. Never hang a wet knit item as the weight of the water stretches it permanently. Superwash treated wools can go in a machine on a gentle cold cycle. Acrylic yarn is typically machine washable but should be kept away from high heat. Always check the label of your specific yarn for the recommended care before washing, and we carry a range of gentle wool wash products here.

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